Sunday, May 26, 2013
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Campari
Friday , May 24
I have developed a taste for Campari and soda, like the locals. So for our evening aperitif, we found Campari's (formerly know as Zucca's) right on the Piazza del Duomo, with it's 1920's art nouveau mosaics and classy bartenders.
I have developed a taste for Campari and soda, like the locals. So for our evening aperitif, we found Campari's (formerly know as Zucca's) right on the Piazza del Duomo, with it's 1920's art nouveau mosaics and classy bartenders.
Tourists
Thursday, May 23
Good luck charms abound in Italy for locals and tourists alike. Passing by the doors of the Duomo, three spots were noticeably worn and shiny - the knee of Jesus, the calf of his tormentor, and the clasped hands of Mary Magdalene and Jesus. We touched them and said a prayer for love, just like we spun around the bull's balls on the floor mosaic in the huge Galleria de Victor Emmanuel II for good luck.
Good luck charms abound in Italy for locals and tourists alike. Passing by the doors of the Duomo, three spots were noticeably worn and shiny - the knee of Jesus, the calf of his tormentor, and the clasped hands of Mary Magdalene and Jesus. We touched them and said a prayer for love, just like we spun around the bull's balls on the floor mosaic in the huge Galleria de Victor Emmanuel II for good luck.
The Last Supper
Thursday, May 23
I thought that da Vinci's Last Supper was a painting, but in reality, it is a very fragile fresco. Instead of regular fresco painting on the damp plaster, Leonardo, wanting more time to really explore the emotion of the moment, used a dry painting technique which ended up being very unstable. Five years after it's completion in 1498, the Last Supper was showing signs of deterioration. Considering that the refectory was used as a barrack, the walls for target practice, and during WWII, a bomb left only the Last Supper wall standing, it's amazing there is still a painting at all. We made our reservations to see the Last Supper before we left, as they are "sold out" weeks in advance. At our appointed time, in a group of about 25, we passed through two air locks to stabilize the environment, and were allowed 15 minutes with the fresco. Even with all cleaning and restoration, there are still parts missing, but the emotion is still there. You feel like you are sitting at the table and hearing at that moment, "One of you will betray me". Of course there was no photography of the original, but their was a fake for a photo op. Leonardo is celebrated in Milan as evidenced by this statue overlooking Milan's opera house, La Scala.
I thought that da Vinci's Last Supper was a painting, but in reality, it is a very fragile fresco. Instead of regular fresco painting on the damp plaster, Leonardo, wanting more time to really explore the emotion of the moment, used a dry painting technique which ended up being very unstable. Five years after it's completion in 1498, the Last Supper was showing signs of deterioration. Considering that the refectory was used as a barrack, the walls for target practice, and during WWII, a bomb left only the Last Supper wall standing, it's amazing there is still a painting at all. We made our reservations to see the Last Supper before we left, as they are "sold out" weeks in advance. At our appointed time, in a group of about 25, we passed through two air locks to stabilize the environment, and were allowed 15 minutes with the fresco. Even with all cleaning and restoration, there are still parts missing, but the emotion is still there. You feel like you are sitting at the table and hearing at that moment, "One of you will betray me". Of course there was no photography of the original, but their was a fake for a photo op. Leonardo is celebrated in Milan as evidenced by this statue overlooking Milan's opera house, La Scala.
The Cathedral Terraces
Thursday, May. 23
It was a beautiful day today - the first day since Budapest that we have not needed a jacket. The blue skies and pinnacles of the cathedral as seen from the terraces, were breathtakingly magical. Not only did we enjoy seeing the details up close, but, in the distance, we could see the Alps, reminiscent of our time in the lakes.
It was a beautiful day today - the first day since Budapest that we have not needed a jacket. The blue skies and pinnacles of the cathedral as seen from the terraces, were breathtakingly magical. Not only did we enjoy seeing the details up close, but, in the distance, we could see the Alps, reminiscent of our time in the lakes.
Duomo, Milan
Wednesday, May 22
The Duomo in Milan is a massive gothic cathedral, the third largest Catholic church in the world. It was begun in 1386 and the many pinnacled facade was completed five centuries later in 1813. There are 3,500+ statues and the entire church is made of marble from a quarry near Lake Maggiore. Even though my guidebook said a seven year cleaning was completed in 2007, there was still quite a lot of scaffolding and the highest pinnacle with the gold statue of Mary was completely shrouded in it. Like a house, it always needs something done! I found the sundial, with it's brass line and zodiac signs on the floor and the tiny hole in the roof intriguing. The post 1945 window of St. Michael the Archangel in the battle of good vs evil was filled with brilliant colors. At the top of the church a small red light indicated the Duomo's relic, the Holy Nail and in the crypt, we saw the body of San Carlo Borromeo in it's glass coffin, clothed, bejeweled, with gloved hands and a death mask. Then there was the statue of St. Bartholomew, having been skinned alive, carrying his own skin. The painting and sculptures of the martyrs are gruesome. This cathedral is so massive that even the panorama doesn't due it justice!
The Duomo in Milan is a massive gothic cathedral, the third largest Catholic church in the world. It was begun in 1386 and the many pinnacled facade was completed five centuries later in 1813. There are 3,500+ statues and the entire church is made of marble from a quarry near Lake Maggiore. Even though my guidebook said a seven year cleaning was completed in 2007, there was still quite a lot of scaffolding and the highest pinnacle with the gold statue of Mary was completely shrouded in it. Like a house, it always needs something done! I found the sundial, with it's brass line and zodiac signs on the floor and the tiny hole in the roof intriguing. The post 1945 window of St. Michael the Archangel in the battle of good vs evil was filled with brilliant colors. At the top of the church a small red light indicated the Duomo's relic, the Holy Nail and in the crypt, we saw the body of San Carlo Borromeo in it's glass coffin, clothed, bejeweled, with gloved hands and a death mask. Then there was the statue of St. Bartholomew, having been skinned alive, carrying his own skin. The painting and sculptures of the martyrs are gruesome. This cathedral is so massive that even the panorama doesn't due it justice!
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Milan
Tuesday, May 21
The high speed train brought us to Milan in 2 hours, traveling up to 180 mph. We have a beautiful room at the Chateau Monfort with a church outside our window. Walking distance to the city center, the Piazza Duomo, as well as many restaurants and cafes, makes this a great location. We are trying to enjoy each moment here and not think about the end of our trip.
The high speed train brought us to Milan in 2 hours, traveling up to 180 mph. We have a beautiful room at the Chateau Monfort with a church outside our window. Walking distance to the city center, the Piazza Duomo, as well as many restaurants and cafes, makes this a great location. We are trying to enjoy each moment here and not think about the end of our trip.
Monday, May 20, 2013
Carl
Sunday, May 19
Like two ships passing in the night, we were able to see Carl in Florence and take him out for the evening. We had not seen Carl since early March, so just laying our eyes on him was great! We met him at his hotel and walked back to our apartment, where we had chilled our bottle of Franciacorta. Popping the cork, we toasted, and along with some Italian marinated mixed olives, caught up on school, the fraternity, family, our trips so far, summer plans, and life in general. All to soon it was time to walk around the corner for another wonderful meal at Leoni 4. Having Carl with us, we could now try the infamous Florentine steak, a marinated and grilled kilo of beef cooked to perfection. Bruschetta, our favorite pear stuffed fiocchetti pasta, grilled vegetables and wine rounded out our animated dinner. On our walk back to Carl's hotel, we stopped at the 7th best gelato shop in the world, according to Carl's research, for a night cap. Carl was off to the Amalfi Coast the next morning, and we had one last day in Florence.
Like two ships passing in the night, we were able to see Carl in Florence and take him out for the evening. We had not seen Carl since early March, so just laying our eyes on him was great! We met him at his hotel and walked back to our apartment, where we had chilled our bottle of Franciacorta. Popping the cork, we toasted, and along with some Italian marinated mixed olives, caught up on school, the fraternity, family, our trips so far, summer plans, and life in general. All to soon it was time to walk around the corner for another wonderful meal at Leoni 4. Having Carl with us, we could now try the infamous Florentine steak, a marinated and grilled kilo of beef cooked to perfection. Bruschetta, our favorite pear stuffed fiocchetti pasta, grilled vegetables and wine rounded out our animated dinner. On our walk back to Carl's hotel, we stopped at the 7th best gelato shop in the world, according to Carl's research, for a night cap. Carl was off to the Amalfi Coast the next morning, and we had one last day in Florence.
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