We were disappointed to learn that virtually all of the coastal trails connecting the Cinque Terre were closed. Due to landslides and repairs, only a small portion of the trail connecting Vernazza with Monterosso was open. As the town began to fill with tourists, we found the swimming spots below and to the right of the point and the vineyard trail above, both still accessible, so up we climbed. Manarola, like most of the Cinque Terre towns, surrounds a river mouth with steep slopes rising on either side, terraced with vineyards. Bridges once spanned the river, but now the river, sill flowing into the Med, is paved over. You can hear it, but you can't see it. From above, you can see the S shape of the town, as it follows the river. The sun was brilliant, the sea a beautiful blue green below us, and the smell of flowers in bloom in the warm air surrounded us. From the vineyard trail which looped back to town, there was an offshoot trail, panorama to Volastra, so why not? Up through the terraces we went, stopping to enjoy the stunning views and to catch our breath. Once at Volastra, we realized that this upper trail would take us to the next Cinque Terre town, Corniglia, the only one of the five perched on a hilltop, but it was another 1.5 hours. Wonderful views of Manarola to the left and Corniglia to the right were ours just a bit further on. Then, opting for a swim instead, we headed back down, through well tended little gardens and olive groves, to our swimming hole, enjoying the Mediterranean sun and cold turquoise blue sea. As we rounded the point for home, Manarola came into view, bathed in the setting sunlight.
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